Antique Art Nouveau Belle Epoque pendant necklace. 14-18k gold, silver, platinum diamonds, pearls, peridot, amethyst. Made circa 1895 to 1915. Suffragette colors - see note below. Comes with associated chain. Independent appraisal.
Measurements: Length of chain is 15 1/4 inches (39cm). Length of pendant, including the bale is 2 1/8 inches (5.5cm). Total weight is 23.4 grams. Chain weighs 6.8 grams. Pendant weighs 16.6 grams. Peridot approximately 1.39ct; Diamonds approximately 1.50ct and H-J in color.
Please see below for full description.
Description : Strong Art Nouveau design with assymmetric scrolling curves. The pendant consists of a smaller and a larger circle of diamonds, connected loosely like a figure 8, finely pave set with Old Mine Cut diamonds. The larger ring or swirl of diamonds is placed higher than the smaller one. It's tail coils towards the center and ends in a radiating arrangement centered by a peridot with 4 pearls - one at each diagonal point. An amethyst sits astride one of the pearls and the outer swirl of diamonds. Tri-lobed diamond set foliage adds to interest and richness. Tiny spikes with diamond terminals radiate from the peridot, adding to the floral theme and fullness of the design.
As with most jewelry of this period, diamonds were set in silver placed over gold. This was in order to show them off to better effect in candle or gas light.
This pendant can be worn reversed with the larger swirl at the top. The back has a pair of curling hooks or wires, through which a ribbon or chain could be thread and thus suspend it in the opposite direction.
The pendant clearly and deliberately uses the colors Green, White and Violet (purple), which were symbolic of the Suffragette movement in the years between 1910 and 1918. However, there is no way of proving that it was made with these gems specifically for this purpose, so we will let the new buyer decide. We have read that Queen Alexandra who was a fashion leader and icon at the time, was particularly fond of amethysts and peridot, so she could have influenced the use of gems in this lovely pendant. Either way, the color and gem combination is very impressive. Amethyst a wonderful deep shade of purple.
Quality of workmanship is very good. Clearly a rich and luxury item.
The pendant comes with a wonderful heavy gold chain in 18k yellow gold and platinum alternating sections.
Judging from the clasp and color of the gold, the chain is most likely a slightly later addition, dating from the 1930's. (Tongue in tube clasps were used from the Victorian era, but this one looks slightly later. White gold was only used in jewelry from the 1930's. )
Marks and Metal: No marks. Chain is a combination of gold testing as 14 and 18k (depending on place) and platinum. The pendant is 14k gold with diamonds set in silver.
Condition: Good with minor wear commensurate with age. A tiny spot of solder on the back of the pendant is difficult to find and in no way impinges on the appearance of the necklace (mentioned only for the sake of total accuracy). Pearls were not tested as natural/cultured. Please see enlarged pictures and don't hesitate to ask questions which we will do our best to answer.
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