Antique Georgian Iberian jewelry set parure consisting of a pair of earrings and a brooch / stomacher. 18k gold and emeralds. Made in Spain circa 1750-1810.
Measurements: Brooch weighs 30.1 grams. Earrings weigh 25.7 grams. Total weight is 55.8 grams.
Brooch is approximately 3 1/4 inches (a little over 8cm) across. Brooch approx 2 3/8 long. Earrings are approximately 1 1/2 inches across (4cm) and 2 inches long.
Please see below for full description.
Description : This set consists of a pair of earrings and a brooch. At that time, much jewelry was actually sewn onto clothing. It is therefore feasible that the pin is a 19th century addition. The gold wires of the brooch would also allow a wearer to thread a ribbon or chain of gold or pearls through the brooch and wear it around the neck, as the central element of a necklace or a beautiful pendant. The brooch might have been considered a stomacher in the past. These were jewels sewn on to the center of a garment between the bottom of the chest and the navel and hence called stomachers. The name devant de corsage is synonymous with stomacher and they were amongst the most beautiful of jewels ever made. Most stomachers were either broken up into smaller jewels or worn as brooches today.
As we can see, this jewelry was extremely versatile.
This set has classic Georgian Iberian design consisting of 3 sections: an upper surmount, a curving bow central section and a drop.
All pieces are detachable and composed of 3 elements hooked together by broad gold folded bands of gold. The earrings can therefore be considered Day Night / Top Drop because the tops could be worn alone by day with a much 'bigger' look at night with all 3 elements. Similarly, the stomacher or brooch could be seperated into 2 or 3 parts and attached to a garment singly or together.
The constituent parts are made of beautifully hand crafted gold, with pulled settings enclosing square and rectangular, flat cut emeralds. Flowers and foliage theme with graceful sinuous curves and floral rosettes. The curves are so graceful and floral elements so delicate that one could almost see a very early predecessor of Art Nouveau elegance in them.
Central elements of each section arch convexly with chased and repousse detail. Energetic and very pretty design.
Luxurious quality of the workmanship is also reflected by the decoration on the back of some elements. Georgian era studs on the backs of other elements add interest and authenticity.
Earrings for pierced ears with sturdy catch-clasps.
Emeralds were mined in the then Spanish colony of Columbia, so we can be certain that the jewelry was made in Spain. The emeralds of this set as well as the workmanship are particularly lovely and way above the quality one normally finds in jewelry of the period. The emeralds are very bright and clear and the gold work is well defined and flowing. Design is subtle and very attractive. Proportions are perfect.
It is exciting to find jewelry of this age that is still in such good shape and has such contemporary appeal. Design and colors are exceptional with fine, delicate workmanship vastly superior to many other examples from the same period. The set is as stunning and as wearable today as it was about 250 years ago.
Marks and Metal: No marks, as is to be expected. Gold was electronically tested.
Condition: Good with negligible wear commensurate with age. A couple of tiny spots of solder on the back mentioned for the sake of accuracy. It is rare to find Georgian jewelry in such good condition. Please see enlarged pictures and don't hesitate to ask questions which we will do our best to answer.
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